Welcome 3 More Farmers to the RAWMI Community

At the Raw Milk Institute, we offer free mentoring to all dairy farmers. Whether they are milking one cow, a handful of goats, or a large herd, the principles of safe raw milk production form a foundational toolset that benefits all dairy farmers and their customers. 

Some of the farmers we mentor choose to keep it casual, and are satisfied to just ask us a few questions before continuing their raw milk journeys. There is another set of farmers, though, that is not content to just dip their toes in the water; they want to dive right in and take their entire milk process to the next level. 

For these farmers, we offer our (free) RAWMI Listing program, wherein we assist farmers in developing their own unique on-farm Risk Analysis and Management Plan, documenting their processes with written Standard Sanitary Operating Procedures, and identifying the Critical Control Points that are essential to their production of safe raw milk. RAWMI Listed farmers test their milk at least monthly for ongoing assurance that their processes are working well to produce low-risk raw milk. RAWMI Listing is the gold standard for raw milk producers.

Three farms have recently completed the RAWMI Listing process, and we extend them a warm welcome into our growing community!

The Barefoot Cow

The Barefoot Cow Farm is a grass-fed, raw milk micro dairy herdshare located in Eastern North Carolina. The Barefoot Cow is owned and operated by Kelsey and Brian Barefoot, with a little help from their 2 young children. Kelsey Barefoot is a former Critical Care Nurse who quit her nursing job to pursue her passion for a healthier life for herself, her family, and her community.  Besides operating their micro-dairy, Kelsey is also an Admin Assistant for RAWMI, where she serves as a first contact for farmers and handles monthly data submissions from Listed farms.   

Kelsey and Brian’s small herd of registered A2/A2 Jersey cows happily graze on 30 rotational acres of natural grass pastures year-round. The Barefoot Cow Farm is an extension of the generational family farm, as Kelsey’s parents operate Jewel Hill Farms, another RAWMI Listed farm.Kelsey helped on her parents’ farm before being mentored to carry on the family’s dedication to safe, raw milk. With their on-farm laboratory, the Barefoot Cow Farm implements a test-and-hold program for every lot of raw milk. This assures that each bottling of raw milk falls within the coliform and standard plate count (SPC) Common Standards for raw milk.

British Columbia Dairy

This micro-dairy in British Columbia is a small herdshare. (Due to the legal situation for raw milk in Canada, this farm remains unnamed on our website.) One of the farmers is a veterinarian, and animal welfare is a top priority. Their farm is small and diverse, integrating managed intensive rotational grazing, follow-the-leader animal impacts, and organic practices to naturally regenerate soils depleted by years of conventional farming. During the grazing season, they move their tiny herd of Jersey cows to fresh grass daily over 5 acres of irrigated silvopastures.

The owners of this farm intentionally returned to a lifestyle where they produce healthy whole foods and humanely raised animals. They are committed to producing clean, nutrient dense, delicious milk. As part of the British Columbia Herdshare Association, their milk is tested regularly for coliforms, SPC, and pathogens. They are excited about the opportunity to provide fresh raw milk to their family and the surrounding supportive community.

Wilson Ranch

Wilson Ranch Dairy is family-owned and operated in the beautiful foothills of the Arkansas Ozark Mountains. Their farm has grown to 429 acres with 25 A2/A2 Jerseys for milking, in addition to beef cattle and sheep. The Wilson family consists of Rob and Nan Wilson and their six children: Aaron, Rachel, Stephen, Luke, Joanna, and John. Rob is a local dentist in Heber Springs, and his son Aaron is a veterinarian that has been a tremendous asset to the Ranch.

Rob’s dental office has an in-clinic laboratory, run by a certified medical technologist. At this lab, Wilson Ranch tests every batch of milk for SPC, coliforms, and e coli 0157-H7. With their test-and-hold program, they are able to ensure that all milk sold meets the RAWMI Common Standards.

Raw Milk Farmers from Coast to Coast and In-Between

Raw milk farmers come from all walks of life. The 26 farmers who are LISTED with the Raw Milk Institute have backgrounds such as helicopter pilot, PhD scientist, electrician, and paramedic. What brings people from so many diverse areas to raw milk farming is the desire to connect with their food, create healthier lives, and provide this life-giving food to their communities.

Three new farms have recently completed the process of being LISTED by the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI).  Becoming LISTED is much more than an administrative process. It involves one-on-one mentoring from RAWMI as each farm develops a Risk Analysis Management Plan (RAMP) for their unique conditions.  Milk bacterial testing is then used as a confirmation step to ensure that the RAMP is working well. The whole process generally takes a few months to complete.  RAWMI LISTING is the Gold Standard for low-risk raw milk production.  

Here’s an introduction to farmers from Virginia, California, and Michigan who have recently completed the LISTING process. 

A Heart for Learning – Creambrook Farm in Virginia

Ben and Kristen Beichler are the owners of Creambrook Farm, a thriving herdshare dairy in Virginia.  With their herd of over 100 Jerseys on 243 acres of prime Virginia farmland, the Beichler’s are able to provide nutritious grassfed raw milk to 800+ families.   

With so much success as a herdshare dairy, it might be assumed that either Ben or Kristen must have been raised on a farm. Yet, surprisingly, they are both first-generation farmers. At the heart of their success is the ability to learn from and build upon the lessons of others. After all, the Beichlers actually met while both working at Joel Salatin’s Polyface Farm back in 2010.  

Both Ben and Kristen worked on multiple grass-based farms for years, picking up lessons all along the way that would serve them well when they were finally ready to start their own farm. As their own family started to grow, Kristen settled into motherhood while Ben continued to seek farm experience through working at several grazing dairy farms, including The Family Cow in Pennsylvania.  

In 2017, the Beichlers and their young sons were finally able to start Creambrook Farm in Middlebrook, Virginia. Although Ben and Kristen were originally shipping most of their milk to a creamery, within a year they shifted all of their focus to growing the raw milk herdshare. Focusing on raw milk provided a way for them to generate the income necessary to raise their family while working full-time on the farm.  

For the Beichlers and their three young sons (7-year-old James, 4-year-old Nate, and 1.5-year-old Teddy), raw milk nutrition is a vital part of their health. Ben and Kristen have seen benefits in their overall health, and raw milk has nourished Kristen throughout her pregnancies and breastfeeding.  Their three boys naturally transitioned to raw milk after weaning, and have grown to be healthy and happy with raw milk as a staple part of their diets.  

Through their large herdshare, Ben and Kristen are able to share these benefits with their community. The Beichlers are passionate about supporting their members' healthy lifestyles.  They make it easy for Virginia families to have high-quality, delicious raw milk with pick-up sites throughout over the state.

Leaving the Rat Race – Jorasz Family Ranch in Michigan

Growing up in Michigan, Teri Jorasz never wanted to be a farmer.  Her husband Andy worked at his family’s 300 cow commercial dairy, but Teri herself was never interested in the farming lifestyle.  Although Andy had been content to work at his family’s farm since childhood, Teri had been raised in town and never felt any pull towards farming.  She worked in sales, marketing, and customer service for decades, while she and Andy raised their four kids. 

In 2005, Teri and Andy bought a new home with farmland that could be used for growing feed for Andy’s parents’ commercial dairy. With all that extra space, Teri and Andy decided to augment their incomes with butcher animals that they could sell locally. They invested in Hereford swine breeding stock and a small herd of Red Angus cattle.  

Meanwhile, Teri’s work position increased to working 50-60 hours per week in a fast-paced environment with demanding quotas. Years of long, stressful work hours started taking their toll, and Teri felt increasingly dissatisfied with her line of work. She felt a pull to do something more meaningful, and farming started to make deep roots in her heart.   

The Jorasz’s herd of butcher animals was growing and needing more attention, and by early 2020 Teri was ready to resign from her sales job to focus on the farm right outside her window. Almost immediately after Teri resigned, everything changed with COVID.  Businesses were closing or laying off workers, there was a great demand for locally produced meats, and the Jorasz kids were suddenly thrust into homeschooling.  

Teri dove right into the full-time farming lifestyle. She realized that all her previous work and experience had perfectly prepared her to be what she had never expected to be: a farmer! Raw milk farmers often find that the skills they honed in their previous careers are gifts to their farm, and that was the case for Teri, too. 

Following in the footsteps of a friend, Teri decided to embark on creating a raw milk herdshare of her own. With mentoring from Andy, Teri started her herdshare with two Brown Swiss cows in the summer of 2020. Soon, Teri’s herdshare grew to 5 cows serving 90+ herdshare members.  

Teri’s days are full, but now her heart is full, too. After feeling so dissatisfied in her sales jobs, farming was like coming home. Teri revels in being able to work at home alongside her family at the Jorasz Family Ranch.  Her raw milk herdshare is in Bark River, Michigan. 

Creating a Healthier Lifestyle for the Sake of Their Sons – Gebrüder Farm in California

John and Allison Wanninger were both born and raised in Placerville California. Growing up, John learned the “old world” way of life from his German immigrant parents.  Everything was made from scratch, and almost all of their food was grown right at home. John went on to become a machinist and welder for Gist Silversmiths, crafting belt buckles and other western products for the rodeo circuit and country western scene.

Allison grew up just down the road from the Wanninger homestead, and her family dabbled in raising animals and livestock. Allison had an immense love for animals and animal science. She developed a heart for teaching, and specialized in early childhood education with an emphasis on special education. 

John and Allison were married in 2000, and a year later they had their first son, Ethan.  By the time Ethan was 15 months old, it was clear that his development was unusual, and he was later diagnosed with autism, epilepsy, apraxia, and severe developmental delay. The Wanningers became participants in the UC Davis Mind Institute’s research on finding the connection between environmental and genetic factors that cause autism.

The researchers from UC Davis performed an exhaustive study of the environment inside and outside the Wanninger’s home, inventorying every product and food in the home and collecting samples of blood, soil, and air.  Researchers were even at the hospital to take blood samples and perform tests when the Wanninger’s second son Braden was born.

The last time the researchers visited the Wanninger home, Allison was finally able to get them to reveal some of their findings.  The researchers explained that, if they were trying to prevent autism in their own families, they would focus on eating an organic and natural diet while also removing everything unnatural from the environment (chemicals, fragrances, pesticides, and herbicides). This was a life-changing moment for the Wanningers, and from that day forward they moved to create a healthier environment for their sons to grow up in.

Building off of John’s own homestead upbringing, the Wanningers dove into growing and raising their own food. They eventually moved back onto the seven-acre property where John had grown up, and in just a few short years, they brought the farm back to life. They now raise heritage pigs, chickens, beef cows, and dairy cows for the health of their own family as well as the local community.

Allison and John named their farm Gebrüder, which means brothers, since their farm was born out of a desire to create healthier lives for their two sons. Gebrüder Farm serves as a beacon in their community, hosting quarterly educational events, supporting local artisans, and training interns from the local veterinary program.

Annual Report for Raw Milk Institute

The Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) is on a mission to improve the safety and quality of raw milk and raw milk products through farmer training, rigorous raw milk standards, raw milk research, and improving consumer education.

In 2020, RAWMI was awarded a 2nd grant from the Regenerative Agriculture Foundation (RAF) to further our work. RAWMI matches an economic benefit of stewardship of pastures and soils to high value raw dairy products for consumers. Safe raw milk from pastured cows can sustain the farm financially while the grazing improves the soils.

With the 2nd grant from RAF, RAWMI was able to accomplish much towards the overall goal of universal access to safe raw milk. With the unique challenges of 2020, RAWMI was able to adapt to the changing conditions and successfully develop new models for training and outreach.

Over the last year, RAWMI:

• Gave 14 raw milk training presentations (via Zoom)

• Trained over 500 farmers, legislators, university professors, and consumers on raw milk benefits and risk management (via Zoom)

• Prepared and presented an intensive 4.5 hour training course on Raw Milk Risk Management, for the Ohio Ecological Food and Farming Association (OEFFA)

• LISTED six new farms, who went through the process of developing an individualized Risk Assessment and Management Plan (RAMP) for managing the health and hygiene of their unique farms

• Provided one-on-one mentoring in the production of low-risk raw milk to over 25 additional farms in California, Michigan, Virginia, Michigan, Panama, Argentina, South Dakota, Hawaii, Montana, Washington, Tennessee, North Dakota, Oregon, Connecticut, and British Columbia

• Hosted quarterly meetings for LISTED farmers, which allow the farmers to stay up-to-date on the latest lessons learned for safe raw milk

• Amassed hundreds of raw milk test data from RAWMI LISTED farms 

• Attended and sponsored International Milk Genomics Consortium Conference (via Zoom)

• Collaborated with raw milk researchers in better understanding trends in raw milk-related outbreaks and illnesses

• Worked towards legalization of interstate raw butter and increased legal access to raw milk in Oregon and South Carolina

• Published 20 content pieces on the RAWMI website

• Provided on-farm lab grants to 4 farms

• Provided scholarships for OEFFA training to 10 farmers

Raw Milk Training

RAWMI taught about raw milk health benefits and safety throughout the United States. Whenever RAWMI teaches about raw milk risk management, soil and conditions management are emphasized as key elements in creating healthy, sustainable farms.

Dairy animals grazing on pastures provide a critical link to the soil biome and restorative farm practices. Pasture-based dairy farms produce healthy soils that are rehabilitated and renewed through the cycle of returning organic carbon to the soil in the form of plants biomass and manure. The resulting food that is harvested by either the animals or the farmer is rich in nutritional elements needed for human health.

Via Zoom, raw milk training was presented to over 500 farmers, legislators, university professors, and consumers in association with the following:

• Ohio Ecological Food and Farming Association

• Take Back Your Health Symposium

• Village Fitness and Physical Therapy

• Andrew Columbini (Los Angeles blogger)

• Pennsylvania Grazer’s Convention

• Mid-Atlantic Agriculture Convention

Attendees at RAWMI’s training classes provided feedback such as the following.

“I so enjoyed the RAWMI training yesterday. It was quite energizing to be surrounded virtually with like-minded individuals wanting to produce exceptionally high quality raw milk. For me, the combination of technical information and anecdotes is very effective for explaining why the RAWMI methods are important and how they solve a raw milk producer challenges. I came away with practical solutions to increase the quality/value of our milk and farm. Thank you."

“I left the Zoom meeting with a very clear understanding of what we are doing right and where we need to make changes. Beyond that, though, I left inspired to pursue excellence and cast a clear vision to everyone who is joining me in this endeavor.” 

 “The information was also rich and informative. I learned a ton and the systematic way you presented it was easy to follow and comprehensive.” 

“I cannot wait to move forward with you in becoming RAWMI Listed. We will be making some changes as we form our RAMP plan. We have already adjusted our milk chilling and have seen an improvement in flavor and longevity.” 

“Thank you for all you do. I have no doubt history will look back at the RAWMI as having played a crucial role in reforming raw milk production, health, and nutrition.”

“Excellent presentation that every single person who dairies for themselves and their family should take and learn from. Thank you very much.”

“This has been excellent!  ONLINE was so helpful as it’s hard to travel and be away.”

Farmer Mentoring  

RAWMI worked with individual farmers across the United States, Canada, and South America. RAWMI provided one-on-one mentoring and troubleshooting support for low-risk raw milk production, including helping farmers optimize their raw milk production, overcome problems in their milk systems and testing, and learn more about successful business practices.  This mentorship benefited farmers in:

• California

• Michigan

• Virginia

• Wyoming

• Panama

• Argentina

• South Dakota

• Hawaii

• Montana

• Washington

• Tennessee

• North Dakota

• Oregon

• Connecticut

• British Columbia

RAWMI LISTED Farms

RAWMI LISTED farmers are dedicated to producing clean, safe raw milk. The RAWMI listing process involves the development of individualized Risk Assessment and Management Plans (RAMPs) for managing the health and hygiene of each unique farm. RAWMI LISTED farms submit test data monthly to show that they are in compliance with RAWMI Common Standards, which target a rolling three-month average of <5,000 standard plate count (SPC) and <10 coliforms per ml of raw milk.

In the last year, RAWMI LISTED five more farms, in Virginia, Michigan, Kansas, and Wisconsin. To-date, RAWMI has LISTED 25 farms, and there are currently 20 active LISTED farms in the United States and Canada

RAWMI provided continuing support to all LISTED farmers to enable sustained excellence in low-risk raw milk. This included quarterly meetings for LISTED farmers, which allow the farmers to stay up-to-date on the latest lessons learned for safe raw milk, exchange ideas for improvements, and collaborate with the RAWMI Board of directors.  

RAWMI also sponsored general raw milk educational outreach and advertising through social media. This outreach specifically targeted regions across the United States where RAWMI LISTED dairies are located, to connect consumers to LISTED farmers. 

Raw Milk Research and Science

RAWMI’s mission includes supporting raw milk research and science. RAWMI LISTED farmers test their milk at least monthly for coliforms and Standard Plate Count (SPC). These tests provide a way to measure the amount of bacteria present in the milk, as well as providing a measure of the overall hygiene and cleanliness of the milk. Monthly testing serves as a useful confirmation step for ensuring that raw milk is being produced in a way that discourages pathogen growth and is therefore low-risk.

Test data from LISTED farms is submitted to RAWMI monthly. RAWMI amassed hundreds of test data from RAWMI LISTED farms over the last year.  This data can be used for raw milk research. 

RAWMI was a sponsor of the 17th International Milk Genomics Consortium (IMGC) and attended the virtual IMGC conference. As part of that conference, RAWMI is now engaged with international research and relationships with PhD researchers across the world. The IMGC provides access to the most leading-edge studies on milk genomics.

One of the studies presented at the conference this year was related to the loss of allergy-protective capacity of raw milk due to heating.  This study “tested the various heat-treated milk samples for their native protein profile and their allergy-protective capacity... the allergy-protective effect of raw cow's milk is lost after heating milk for 30 min at 65 °C [149 °F] or higher. This loss of protection coincided with a reduction in native immunologically active whey proteins.” The whey protein in raw milk provides protection from allergies, asthma, and inflammation.  When heated above 149 °F, these properties are dramatically reduced or eliminated. This finding is an important confirmation of the unique beneficial properties of whole, unprocessed raw milk. 

Raw Dairy Legalization and Support

RAWMI collaborated with the Farm-to-Consumer Legal Defense Fund (FTCLDF) towards the legalization of raw butter. Raw butter is an exceptionally nutritious food. For instance, the enzyme alkaline phosphatase (ALP) is found in the butter fat membrane that covers fat globules. ALP decreases inflammation in the body; it is associated with good health and less chronic illness, such as cardiovascular disease and Type-2 diabetes. Raw milk has 4% butter fat, but raw butter contains 86% fat and thus it is very high in alkaline phosphatase.  ALP enzyme is destroyed by pasteurization. The case for legalization of raw butter is currently going through the court system.  

RAWMI is also working towards legalization of raw milk in specific states.  RAWMI provided testimony to lawmakers in Oregon and South Carolina. Furthermore, RAWMI worked with the Organic Farmers Association and the National Farmers Union to create national policies for raw milk. 

Raw Dairy Educational Outreach

RAWMI created numerous educational materials and articles for raw milk consumers and the general public. 20 articles were published to the RAWMI website and social media, with a wide array of topics including:

• How to find a good raw milk farmer

• Immunity, the immune system, and raw milk

• Factory farms vs. sustainable local farms during COVID-19

• Raw milk, asthma, and lung health

• Advice for farmers considering the switch to raw milk

• Two types of raw milk

• Why humans drink raw milk

• Raw milk udder preparation

• Soil fertility and pastures for high-quality raw milk

• Why raw milk standards matter

• Raw milk and lactose intolerance

On-Farm Lab Sponsorships

RAWMI sponsored four farms in building on-farm labs for raw milk bacterial testing. On-farm lab testing is a powerful tool for raw milk farmers. It allows for frequent testing, so farmers can better identify issues before they turn into big problems, and it also helps immeasurably with troubleshooting when needed. On-farm labs require an initial investment of $800-$1,000, but once the lab is in-place the cost per test is only $1-$3. With RAWMI’s sponsorship, four farms were able to build their own on-farm labs for testing coliforms and Standard Plate Count.

Welcome to the First RAWMI Listed Goat Dairy: Bees Knees Farm

Forensic Biology Meets Raw Milk

Raw milk farmers come from all walks of life.  Sarah Williams, from Bees Knees Farm in Virginia, has a PhD in Biochemistry and Molecular Biology.  She has worked in Virginia’s crime laboratory, spent time in Iraq helping to get crime laboratories started, and is now an Associate Professor who performs research in Forensic Science. It may seem surprising that Sarah is also a goat milk farmer, but actually her experience with forensics complements her work to produce clean, safe raw milk.

In her work as a forensic molecular biologist, Sarah was already familiar with systems and techniques for keeping things clean and preventing contamination.  These skills naturally carried over into Sarah’s work on the farm, since proper cleanliness and hygiene are foundational to the production of low-risk raw milk. What a great synergy of skills!

 Animal Husbandry to Rejuvenate Their Land

While Sarah focuses on raw milk production at the farm, her husband Dennis concentrates on raising forested Berkshire pigs and pastured poultry.  They have worked hard to rejuvenate the land on their property in Virginia.  Previously a commercial pine forest, their land turned out to have poor quality, acidic soil which was in dire need of improvement.

By purposefully keeping a variety of animals, Sarah and Dennis are successfully rebuilding their soil as they provide sustenance for their own family and many others. The Williams’ use intensive rotational grazing of their goats, chickens, pigs, rabbits, turkeys and horses on fresh pasture and woodland. This maximizes the benefits to both animals and land.

Continual Improvement

Hygienic milking practices along with management of farm conditions are important steps towards producing safe raw milk. Regular bacteria testing is essential.  Milk bacteria testing serves as a verification step to assure that milk is being produced to meet high standards and dramatically reduces the potential of pathogen growth. RAWMI Listed farmers agree to test their milk at least once a month, and many choose to test even more often.

As a recent improvement, Sarah built an on-farm laboratory at Bees Knees Farm, to enable her to perform frequent bacterial testing of her goat’s milk. On-farm labs allow dairy farmers to test their milk more frequently and inexpensively, and such labs are also quite useful in allowing farmers to measure any impacts from changes in their milk production practices or systems.

Sharing Nutrition and Knowledge

In addition to producing a wide range of farm fresh foods for her local community, Sarah also has an online Herdshare School. What started as a hobby became a passion for producing clean, safe raw milk and encouraging others to do the same.  Through her Herdshare School, Sarah mentors other farmers who are getting started with their own herdshares.  We welcome Sarah Williams and Bees Knees Farm to the community of RAWMI Listed farmers.

Online Raw Milk Risk Management Training - February 10, 2021

On February 10th, the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) will be presenting a 4.5-hour Raw Milk Risk Management training workshop. This presentation will be livestreamed online, so that means you could attend from your own location. The presentation will be part of the 2021 Ohio Ecological Food and Farm Association Conference (OEFFA).

About the Training

This RAWMI training day focuses on the benefits of raw milk, grass-to-glass identification of risks, development of a risk management plan, and lessons learned from other raw milk dairies.

We'll be providing lots of practical tips for the production of safe raw milk. This training has been shown to reduce outbreaks and illnesses, increase safety, and lower insurance costs.

There will be a couple long (1+ hour) breaks built into the schedule so that you can attend to other activities before re-joining the online class.

Registration Fees and Scholarships

The fee to attend this class is $75 for people who aren't members of the OEFFA.

We have $50 scholarships available if the cost is prohibitive for you. Email sarah@rawmilkinstitute.org if you want more info on how to apply for a scholarship.

How to Register

If you'd like to attend, the online registration form is here: https://conference.oeffa.org/registration/

Our class is listed under "Food and Farm School Classes." Hope to see you there!

Kansas Raw Milk Micro-Dairy: Starting Small and Thinking Big

Starting a Farm as Grandparents

Like many other raw milk farmers, Shelley and Matt Harding didn’t start out intending to farm.  Shelley has worked as an electrician, cosmetologist, and more recently as an educator for medical coding.  Matt has a background in criminal justice and construction, and is currently a machinist for the railroad.

Their kids were grown, and Shelley and Matt were settling into their role as grandparents. Yet something was missing. Shelley and Matt found themselves re-connecting with old dreams of having a small farm. So, they purchased some farm land where they could expand their garden and raise more chickens.

But it wasn’t enough, especially for Matt.  He had fond memories of having a nurse cow and raising calves as a hobby during his teens and again in his twenties.  He recalled a certain peacefulness from spending time with his cattle. Now, decades later, Matt knew he wanted to have a cow again. But Shelley…

Shelley didn’t even *like* milk.  The taste and smell turned her off, and she’d had lactose intolerance symptoms for almost 20 years. Anytime she drank milk or milk products, she’d end up with abdominal cramping. Even still, Shelley knew how much it meant to Matt to have a cow again, so in the Spring of 2020 the Hardings brought home Miss Daisy, a pregnant Holstein heifer.

The Habit of Excellence

Shelley is a detail-oriented kinda person.  She naturally wants to do everything with excellence, and farming would be no different. If they were gonna have a cow and milk her, they were gonna do it right and do it well. Matt built a custom milking barn, and Shelley went to work on learning the ins-and-outs of safe raw milk.

With free mentoring from the Raw Milk Institute, the Hardings learned how to optimize their milking barn set-up, udder preparation, milking methods, bottling, and cleaning. They converted their basement into a milk bottling room, and worked hard to get the all of the details right.  

No More Lactose Intolerance or Allergies

But the milk… that was a big surprise for Shelley.  Miss Daisy’s raw milk didn’t smell or taste bad to Shelley like storebought milk had.  And Shelley didn’t have lactose intolerance symptoms with raw milk, either! 

Since she started drinking raw milk daily, Shelley no longer has gastrointestinal problems, and her seasonal allergies went away, too. No more allergy medications and no more sinus headaches. Raw milk helped their granddaughter overcome her allergies, too. The Harding’s experience aligns with scientific studies which have found that raw milk consumption is specifically associated with reduced rates of allergies.

Next Steps

Shelley and Matt’s S&M Farm is the newest dairy to be LISTED by the Raw Milk Institute.  They pride themselves on providing healthy, low-risk milk to a few families in Kansas.  Although Miss Daisy is their only cow for now, Shelley and Matt are already thinking about growing their dairy and building an on-farm lab for milk bacterial testing. The Raw Milk Institute welcomes S&M Farm to our community!

Remembering the Walker-Gordon Dairy, an Innovator in Safe Raw Milk from 1897-1971

Did you know that the science of producing safe raw milk was flourishing way back in the late 1800’s?  Read on for an interview with Dr Edward Tindall DVM, who worked at the Walker-Gordon Certified Raw Milk dairy in New Jersey.

Aerial view of Walker Gordon Laboratories and Dairy in Plainsboro, New Jersey.

Certified Medical Milk

Humans have had a long and successful history with raw milk for at least 10,000 years. Ancient peoples who consumed milk had a competitive advantage over those that did not have a steady source of readily available food, such that the reproductive capacity and/or survivability of ancient raw milk drinkers was substantially increased compared to non-milk-drinking populations.

After numerous millennia flourishing with raw milk, mankind’s relationship with raw milk took a wrong turn. By the mid-1800’s in America, some raw milk production had shifted away from farms and into highly-populated cities. Big cities did not have pastures or clean water, and the cows in city dairies were kept in filthy conditions with poor nutrition and poor animal health. Many of these cows were fed byproducts from alcohol distilleries, leading to illness in the cows. Raw milk had become a source of deadly diseases such as tuberculosis, typhoid, diphtheria, and scarlet fever. 

In the late 1800's, it was recognized that raw milk being produced in these conditions was dangerous, and two solutions were proposed.  Pasteurization was ushered in to address filthy conditions and unhealthy cows in cities.  It answered the question of how to commercialize dirty milk, rather than spending the time and energy it would take to produce clean milk from healthy cows. The other solution was to actually produce the milk in hygienic conditions with healthy animals.  

It was known that raw milk was a superior source of nutrition for infants and children, so the American Association of Medical Milk Commissions (AAMMC) was established in the late 1800's by Dr Henry Coit to ensure a supply of safe raw milk. The AAMMC was in operation for nearly a century, certifying medical raw milk for use in hospitals and for feeding infants and children.  

“The requirements of the New York Commission at that time were: ‘That the milk should contain 4 to 4.5 percent fat; that it should be free from pathogenic germs; and that the total number of bacteria should not be excessive. The milk was to be delivered in bottles and not over 24 hours old. It should be from healthy cows.”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

Walker Gordon’s Rotolactor in operation. School buses, tour buses, and families accounted for approximately 250,000 visitors annually.

Walker-Gordon Dairy and Dr Edward Tindall DVM

The Walker-Gordon dairy farm was a preeminent source of Certified Raw Milk for over 70 years.  Edward Tindall’s father worked at the Walker-Gordon farm, and he himself worked at the farm for several summers.  Edward went on to become a practicing veterinarian in New Jersey for nearly 40 years, and also developed implantable microchip technology for animals. The Raw Milk Institute is pleased to have Edward Tindall DVM on our Advisory Board.

In the late 1990’s, Edward co-authored a book about the Walker-Gordon farm titled Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind. Edward was kind enough to share more information about this extraordinary farm in a written interview. 

1.      Can you tell us about what made Walker-Gordon dairy farm so special?

Walker-Gordon was never intended to be just a dairy. The actual name was Walker-Gordon Laboratory Company, imprinted on their bottles and responsible for numerous innovations in the field of dairy. Among these were the first rotary centralized milking parlor, milking 1650 head. 50 cows were milked at a time (every 12 and a half minutes or one revolution) on the ʻRotolactorʼ.

The milk was immediately refrigerated, and if intended for the Philadelphia, New York or Boston market, shipped within hours from a refrigerated box car of the Pennsylvania Railroad on a siding adjacent to the milking parlor.

The cows were attended 24 hours a day by herdsmen in 50 cow barns with constant attention to keeping the cows bedded on fresh peanut shell bedding and groomed, with ever present fresh water on demand, fed grain and excellent alfalfa hay year-round.

Other innovations were the addition of irradiated yeast to feeding regimens to enhance vitamin D (prophylaxis against childhood rickets), production of acidophilous milk for enteric health, harvesting crops at prime time for storage regardless of weather conditions, use of byproducts (fecal waste) for garden fertilizers, artificial insemination, crop production by cooperative farms under control and supervision of central organization, and extensive record keeping of health and productivity of each cow.

Bottling was done immediately adjacent to the Rotolactor. The milk, "certified and unpasteurized," was not exposed to anything but sterilized stainless steel and glass.

2.     What production and milking practices were used to keep the milk safe for people?

Cleanliness was ever a constant protocol. The cows were pre-washed with warm water prior to entering the milking parlor. There they were toweled by attendants in white uniforms, attached to sterilized stainless steel milkers, and the milk fed to Pyrex glass containers and delivered through stainless steel pipes to the bottling plant adjacent to the milking platform.

All milking personnel had weekly examinations and throat cultures by the local physician. Milk was routinely cultured in an on-site laboratory for bacterial counts and pathogens.

3. Since you were employed there for a time, tell us about what you did and what it was like to work there?

My employment was several summers working on maintenance and the storage of alfalfa hay. During haying season the crop was harvested at prime time regardless of the weather. Chopped in the field, blown into stake bodied trucks and delivered to the massive dehydrators, it was compressed into 110 to 130 pound bales around the clock. Starting a 7:00 am, the hay was stored in large barns, often in 120 degree summer temperatures.

Hay being delivered to the dehydrator for preservation. In later years, it was chopped into more manageable size for compression and baling.

4.    What kind of milk did this dairy produce?

Walker-Gordon produced Grade A, whole milk, unpasteurized of the highest quality the industry has ever known, from its inception in the earliest years of the twentieth century until it stopped production in 1971.

“For those of us who grew up with the taste of fresh, really fresh, whole milk, unadulterated in any manner except to chill it ice cold, today’s milk is a sad replacement…

 The unequaled taste of an ice cold half pint of milk, the cream layered on the top, after working several uninterrupted hours in excessively hot temperatures… I have yet to equal that flavor…”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

5.     Who were the usual customers for this milk?

The customers were the general public locally, with home delivery, and public markets from Washington, DC to Boston, Ma. A renowned quality product hailed for freshness and longevity, it had a very loyal consumer base. President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, when traveling abroad by ship, insisted that Walker-Gordon milk and cream be available, on board, for the trip.

6.    What was the safety record of this dairy that operated for about 8 decades up until 1971?

The safety record of Walker-Gordon milk and milk products was above reproach and I can find no instances (nor have I heard of any) of any untoward or adverse instances of health problems or lawsuits. Safety of personnel was extremely good. Farm accidents are ever present and WG had some, but fewer than would be expected.

“Cheaper milk from the heartland of America, increased labor costs, higher taxes, wages, and insurances, difficulty in attracting farm labor, the sky-rocketing value of land, and pressure for housing for an increasing and increasingly affluent population all contributed to the demise of farming in general, in New Jersey and elsewhere, and in particular to Walker-Gordon with its emphasis on high quality, first and foremost.”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

7.     What future potential do you see for raw milk dairy farming?

Prognostications of the future of raw milk dairy farming is fraught with the same magnitude of variables as the future of the country. I would like to believe that the future is positive, for indeed, I can think of no more beneficial product than clean, wholesome, properly handled raw milk that is fresh from the cow and unaltered by pasteurization or other untoward handling.

The vicissitudes of government and the legal profession, swayed by propaganda and functioning under ignorance of biology and a mindset that excludes information that does not align with biased public opinion is a very large hurdle to clear. As long as there is a discerning public with the economic wherewithal to acquire a quality product, the market is assured. I admire the efforts of individuals such as Dr. Joseph Heckman and Mark McAfee that take up the torch, live and advocate the premise, and forward such a noble cause.

Paving the Way with Safe Raw Milk

The Walker-Gordon dairy was certainly an exceptional dairy. Walker Gordon’s eight decades of safe raw milk production are an imminent example of what can be achieved through dedication and innovation.  At its peak, the Walker-Gordon dairy was producing 6,500 gallons of milk daily. Through hygienic practices and regular bacteria testing of its milk, Walker Gordon dairy was able to provide safe raw milk for thousands of people over several generations.

The last Certified Medical Milk dairy in the USA was Alta Dena dairy in Los Angeles, California.  Alta Dena produced its last quart of raw milk in May of 1999. With the end of the American Association of Medical Milk Commissions and their certification of raw milk dairies, there was a great need for leadership in safe raw milk.

The Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) was created to fulfill this need.  RAWMI teaches well-established scientific principles and good production methods to assist farmers in producing hygienic, safe raw milk. Through its LISTING program, RAWMI assists farmers in developing risk analysis and management plans (RAMP) for their unique farms. RAWMI’s Common Standards have set an international benchmark for bacterial testing of raw milk.

Edward Tindall’s book, “Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind” is available from Covered Bridge Press, 39 Upper Creek Road, Stockton, New Jersey 08559 at $25 dollars per copy, plus USPS shipping. Covered Bridge Press can be reached at 908-996-4420.

Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind. Book by Edward Tindall, DVM.

New Raw Milk Research from the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Takeaways from a RAWMI Farmer

The 17th International Milk Genomics Consortium (IMGC) Symposium was held on October 13-16, 2020. This year’s conference was presented virtually, to an audience of more than 270 people from around the world. As a raw milk farmer and Chairman of the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI), this was the 10th annual symposium that I have attended.  

Through attending these conferences year-after-year, I have developed many close relationships with university and PhD scientists.  Although the virtual format didn’t allow much in terms of one-on-one connections and conversations with researchers, nonetheless there were many fascinating presentations this year.  

This year’s conference focused on health impacts of milk, with particular focus on immune health, gut microbiome, and breastfeeding in relation to COVID-19. You can see a complete list of all presentations here. There were several presentations related to raw milk which I want to share with the raw milk community.  

University of California-Davis

Loss of Allergy-Protective Capacity of Raw Cow’s Milk After Heat Treatment Coincides with Loss of Immune Active Whey Proteins

Ling Xiong, Wageningen University and Research, Wageningen, The Netherlands 

This study “aimed at achieving a better understanding of the underlying mechanism between heat damage to whey proteins and allergy development.” Raw milk has been correlated with anti-allergenic benefits, and heat-sensitive whey protein has been hypothesized to contribute to these benefits. In this study, “raw cow’s milk was heated for 30 min at 50, 60, 65, 70, 75, or 80 °C [122, 140, 149, 158, 167, or 176 °F]… The allergy-protective effect of differently heated milk samples were tested in a murine OVA-induced food allergy model.” 

This study “tested the various heat-treated milk samples for their native protein profile and their allergy-protective capacity... the allergy-protective effect of raw cow's milk is lost after heating milk for 30 min at 65 °C [149 °F] or higher. This loss of protection coincided with a reduction in native immunologically active whey proteins.” 

Heat treatment at 65 °C or higher destroyed allergy-protective capacity of raw milk in murine OVA-induced food allergy model. Xiong, et al.

The whey protein in raw milk provides protection from allergies, asthma, and inflammation.  When heated above 149 °F, these properties are dramatically reduced or eliminated. This finding is an important confirmation of the unique beneficial properties of whole, unprocessed raw milk. Raw dairy products such as cheese, butter, and strained yogurts would not be expected to have such strong anti-allergenic benefits because they do not contain whey. 

All across the world, when raw cheeses are made the raw whey is drained off and either discarded, used as a fertilizer, or fed to animals such as pigs.  Raw whey protein is arguably one of the most vital components in raw milk and it is literally treated as a waste byproduct. Some raw whey is made into powder and sold as a health product. Most of the whey protein powders on the market are not raw, but are highly pasteurized, spray dried, and oxidized. These widely available whey products no longer have the bioactivity found in the raw form.  

The new research on the anti-allergenic benefits of raw whey shows that, instead of being discarded, the whey left over from making cheese has great potential. Researchers called for innovation to bring raw whey protein to the market for the benefit of human health.  

B. infantis EVC001 Colonization in Breastfed Infants Modulates Cytokine Profile Linked to Autoimmune and Allergic Diseases

Bethany Henrick, Evolve Biosystems Inc., Davis, CA, USA 

This research at UC Davis has been studying the effects of Bifidobacteria infantis EVC001 on gut microbiome and immune health. “The intestinal microbiome plays a critical role in the development of the immune system…Stool samples were collected at Day 6 (baseline) and day 60 of life from exclusively breastfed infants (n=40) randomly selected to receive either 1.8 x 1010 CFU B. infantis EVC001 daily for 21 days starting Day 7 postnatal (EVC001) or breast milk alone (controls).

“Importantly, infants fed B. infantis EVC001 produced significantly decreased levels of [proinflammatory cytokines], while [beneficial cytokine considered to reduce autoimmune and allergic diseases] levels were significantly increased…

“These findings suggest a novel immunomodulatory function of B. infantis in breastfed infants… and further imply this strain of bacteria may [be]… critically important in the reduction of… autoimmune and allergic diseases.” 

The researchers have identified that Bifidobacteria infantis is critical to the training and development of T-Cells, which play a central role in the immune system. Historically, Bifidobacteria dominated the microbiome of breastfed infants. These beneficial bacteria actively train naive T-Cells into protective “Killer T-Cells.” This is foundational and is essential to the development of the newborn infant’s immune system. Under the current set of societal and nutritional conditions, Bifidobacteria in newborns are reduced due to limited breast feeding, use of baby formulas and antibiotics, and high C-section rates. This new research demonstrates that supplementation with Bifidobacteria is likely to improve infants’ immune systems. 

Image from Bethany Henrick’s Presentation at the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Evidence of a Significant Secretory-IgA-Dominant SARS-CoV-2 Immune Response in Human Milk Following Recovery from COVID-19

Rebecca Powell, Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York, NY, USA

Researchers studied breastfeeding mothers and infants during the peak of the New York City COVID-19 outbreak in early 2020. It was found that COVID-19 positive mothers did not transfer the virus to their babies. Tests of the breastmilk of COVID-19 positive mothers found that there is a strong “SARS-CoV-2 immune response [in the form of antibodies] in human milk after infection in the majority of individuals.” Breastmilk from COVID-19 positive mothers contains antibodies which can then confer protection against COVID-19 to their breastfed babies. Interestingly, the milk from COVID-19 positive mothers has been shown to continue to contain COVID-19 antibodies even months after the infection.  

This is one of nature’s protective gifts. Mammalian mothers protect their young through breast milk and antibody sharing. This important fact has also lead other researchers to consider the use of immune milk from cows as a therapeutic food.  It was hypothesized that, if cows were exposed to coronavirus during the last stages of pregnancy, the colostrum they produced after calving would contain coronavirus antibodies.  

My own RAWMI LISTED dairy (Organic Pastures Dairy Company) worked with IMGC and UC Davis researchers in early 2020 to test this hypothesis in a pilot study.  The cows were exposed to a bovine coronavirus in late pregnancy, and their colostrum and milk were then tested after calving. It worked! Antibodies to coronavirus were found in the colostrum and milk after calving. This study is now being expanded at UC Davis using their own cows. Further work needs to be done to better understand any potential impact of antibodies in milk on older children and adults, who do not have permeable guts like young infants do.  

Milk, Nose, Gut: Microbiomes in the CHILD Cohort Study

Meghan Azad, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada 

The CHILD Cohort Study (www.childstudy.ca) is a study of 3,500 Canadian families from pregnancy onwards to understand the developmental origins of chronic diseases. This study has shown that breastfeeding and vaginal birth are associated with reduced risks of childhood asthma and obesity. These beneficial effects appear to be partly mediated by the infant gut microbiome, which is seeded with beneficial bacteria in the birth canal as well as through breastfeeding. Current research is focused on understanding “how breastfeeding practices and breast milk components (including bacteria, fungi, oligosaccharides, fatty acids, hormones and cytokines) shape the developing infant nasal and gut microbiomes and contribute to health and disease trajectories.”   

Raw milk from other mammals has been correlated with many of the same benefits as human breast milk. Like breast milk, raw milk contains a wide array of essential nutrients, fats, proteins, anti-inflammatory and digestive enzymes, bioavailable vitamins, and minerals, all in a natural form which is most easily utilized by the body.  

Image from Meghan Azad’s Presentation at the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Difference in Levels of SARS-CoV-2 Spike Protein- and Nucleocapsid-Reactive SIgM/IgM, IgG and SIgA/IgA Antibodies in Human Milk

Veronique Demers Mathieu, Medolac Laboratories/University of Massachusetts Amherst, USA 

Researchers from the University of Massachusetts sought gain an understanding of the “presence and the levels of [COVID-19] antibodies” in breast milk. The researchers measured the amounts of various types of COVID-19 antibodies in breast milk samples from 41 women during the pandemic. They found that women who “had symptoms of viral respiratory infection during the last year” had higher levels of certain types of COVID-19 antibodies than women who had experienced no viral respiratory symptoms in the last year.  Heat treatment of the breast milk at 100°C (212 °F) for 30 minutes “completely inactivated” the antibodies. The researchers concluded that, “The presence of SARS-CoV-2-reactive antibodies in human milk could provide passive immunization to the breastfed infants.” 

This research has confirmed that antibodies are completely destroyed through heat treatment of milk. Breast milk must be raw in order to provide antibody protection to infants. This same science applies to raw milk from other mammals.

Closing Remarks

The symposium ended with closing remarks by Dr. Bruce German and Dr. Jennifer Smilowitz from UC Davis. They discussed two important upcoming needs in the community of scientific research about milk:

1. Defining breast milk as the keystone research target of 21st Century for the public research funding agencies of the world, and

2. Positioning food as the first line of defense for nourishment and therapeutics in emerging infections of public health impact. 

In other words, raw milk is considered to be the most important area of research going forward. This is because raw milk contains the bioactive genomic secrets of life, and to a large degree determines how well the immune system and gut microbiome will function. When the science of raw milk is better understood, human health will be improved and more illnesses will be prevented. 

In summary, this conference confirmed the following.  

• Raw milk is a whole bioactive superfood that nourishes and builds the immune system.

• Heat destroys the bioactive elements in raw milk that impart health benefits.

• Raw whey is a new market opportunity, yet innovation will be required because the FDA forbids sale of raw whey. Safe raw whey must be produced in the same ways that safe raw milk is produced.

• Raw breast milk provides protection against COVID-19 to breastfeeding infants. There is a need for more research into the immune-protective benefits of raw milk from other mammals.

Why Raw Milk Standards Matter

Back in 2011 before the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) was formed, there were no universal standards for safe raw milk production. Consumer demand for raw milk was expanding, as people learned about the health benefits of raw milk as well as the negative effects of pasteurization. There was a growing body of evidence that children who drink raw milk have decreased rates of asthma, allergies, eczema, ear infections, fever, and respiratory infections. Whereas pasteurized milk is a top food allergen and difficult to digest, raw milk is actually a health-supporting food with rich therapeutic potential that is easily digested by most consumers. Yet, standards for raw milk varied widely from state to state and country to country. 

The occasional foodborne illness outbreaks that could be tied to raw milk continued to tarnish raw milk’s reputation.  And worse yet, some of these outbreaks actually led to life-threatening illnesses. As raw milk’s popularity grew, it was being consumed by a wider segment of the population including immune-compromised people. Whereas average healthy people are likely to have relatively mild symptoms from exposure to foodborne pathogens, immune-compromised people are more likely to have severe symptoms.

Perfectly Safe Food?

It is important to note that there is no such thing as a perfectly safe food. A CDC analysis of foodborne illnesses from 2009-2015 showed that the top food categories commonly linked to illnesses were chicken, pork, and seeded vegetables. Multi-state foodborne illness outbreaks have been linked to foods ranging from unpasteurized apple juice to ground beef to soy nut butter to lettuce.

Pasteurized milk is not perfectly safe, either, and is implicated in foodborne illnesses and outbreaks every year.  Although a wide range of foods including meats and vegetables are known to have the potential for causing foodborne illnesses, only raw milk is targeted by government regulators as a food to be completely avoided. Countries such as Canada and Australia currently have complete bans on raw milk.

Raw Milk Institute Method for Safe Raw Milk

The Raw Milk Institute was founded in 2011 to advance the cause of safe raw milk.  The numerous health benefits of raw milk make it an essential food, which is too important to be allowed to be systematically suppressed by regulators and government agencies. RAWMI sought to better understand the important factors in ensuring that raw milk was safe to consume.

In 2011-12, RAWMI brought together a diverse international group with the purpose of establishing standards for safe raw milk. This group included medical doctors and epidemiologists, nutritional consultants, veterinarians, food safety scientists, raw milk farmers, and raw milk consumers. This collaborative group developed the Raw Milk Institute Common Standards, which were initially released in 2012. 

The RAWMI Common Standards describe a three-pronged approach for the production of safe raw milk which consists of:

• Farmer training and mentoring

• Risk Analysis and Management Plan (RAMP) for the unique conditions on each individual farm

• Stringent yet achievable bacterial test standards for coliforms and Standard Plate Count (SPC)

The Common Standards Work!

Since their release in 2012, the RAWMI Common Standards have become a foundational part of low-risk raw milk production across North America. When farmers are well-trained, use careful production practices as laid out in their individual RAMP, and perform ongoing bacterial testing of their milk, they can produce raw milk that is ultra-low-risk.

Researchers from Canada and Europe have studied the safety of raw milk intended for direct human consumption, and have specifically considered milk from farms who implement the RAWMI Common Standards. They have found that carefully produced raw milk is a low-risk food which is fundamentally different from pre-pasteurized milk. The implementation of the RAWMI Common Standards has led to a significant reduction in raw milk-related illnesses and outbreaks.

The table below contrasts pathogen test data from pre-pasteurized milk vs. raw milk intended for direct human consumption.  As illustrated in the table, pathogen testing of pre-pasteurized milk samples has detected pathogens in up to 33% of samples.  In contrast, there were zero pathogens detected in thousands of milk samples from raw milk intended for direct human consumption. It is clear from this test data that pre-pasteurized milk is categorically different from raw milk intended for direct human consumption.

Data courtesy British Columbia Herdshare Association

Common Standards and RAMP 2020 Update

Knowledge about safe raw milk is continually advancing. With the review of the RAWMI Advisory Board and LISTED farmers, the RAWMI Common Standards and RAMP have recently been updated to include the latest information about best practices in raw milk production. The updated Common Standards and RAMP are also now inclusive of other dairy animals such as goats and sheep. The 2020 Common Standards and RAMP are available here:

The Fascinating History of Milk Kefir

Milk kefir is a fermented probiotic drink that is renowned for its healthful properties. Studies have shown that milk kefir is correlated with a wide range of health benefits, including improved digestion [1], lower blood pressure and cholesterol [2], cancer prevention [1], improved immune systems [3], and reduced asthma and allergies [2]. Milk kefir is a thick and slightly effervescent drink, with a sour, creamy taste.

Milk Kefir is Unique

Although there are many different types of fermented milk around the world [4], milk kefir is unique because it is made with kefir “grains.”  Kefir grains are not true grains, but are actually symbiotic colonies of bacteria and yeast in a protein and lipid matrix. Kefir grains resemble pieces of cauliflower, and they ferment the milk through breaking down the lactose into lactic acid and other beneficial components.

Milk kefir is now widely known and consumed in many countries throughout the world, but for many centuries, milk kefir was a closely-guarded secret of the Northern Caucasus region in Russia. The people of the Northern Caucasus region are renowned for their longevity, with one of the highest proportions of centenarians in the world. Milk kefir is a dietary staple in this region. 

Traditionally, milk kefir was made by combining fresh milk and kefir grains inside goatskin bags. During the daytime, the goatskin bags were hung in the sunshine of the doorways, and prodded or pushed by each person who went through the doorway. As the milk kefir was consumed, more fresh milk was added to the goatskin bag, forming a continuous fermentation cycle.

Grains of the Prophet

The people of the Caucasus mountains have been making kefir for hundreds (or even thousands) of years. In this region, kefir grains are known by the name “Grains of the Prophet” [5]. Their traditional legend about the origin of kefir grains is that the prophet Mohammed gifted kefir grains to the Orthodox Christians in this region [6]. Mohammed is said to have taught the people how to make kefir, and the people revered kefir as a health-promoting food.  

The kefir grains and methods for making kefir were kept secret by people in the Caucasus mountains for many generations. Owning kefir grains was equated with wealth in this region. The people believed that the benefits of kefir would somehow be diminished if the secrets of making kefir were shared outside of their region. Marco Polo is said to have tried kefir, and kefir was prized as a medicinal food, yet the keys to making kefir were not shared until the early 1900’s.

A True Tale of Deceit, Capture, and Retribution

Since milk kefir was a closely guarded secret, how did it ever become more widely known? This is where the story of milk kefir gets even more interesting.

The Russian immunologist Dr. Ilya Ilyich Metchnikoff (who received the Nobel Prize for his work on immunity in 1908) became interested in learning about the causes of the exceptional longevity of the people in the Caucasus region and other regions. Metchnikoff came to the conclusion that soured milk, including milk kefir, was one of the keys to longevity and well-being. Following the publication of Metchnikoff’s book, The Prolongation of Life, in 1907, the All Russian Physicians’ Society became determined to use milk kefir as a medicinal treatment for their patients.

Caucasus Region. Image from freeworldmaps.net

The Blandov brothers, from Moscow Dairy, were commissioned by the All Russian Physicians’ Society to obtain kefir grains from the tribes in the Caucasus mountains. However, the tribes refused to sell any kefir grains to the Blandov brothers. Undaunted, the brothers came up with a scheme to obtain the kefir grains: they would send a beautiful woman to the court of tribal Prince Bek-Mirza Barchorov, and with her allure she would obtain the kefir grains. Irina Sakharova, an employee of the Blandov brothers, was chosen for this important mission [5].

Irina Sakharova and Prince Barchorov, 1908. Image from Revolution Fermentation

Although Irina succeeded in attracting the interest of Prince Barcharov, he refused to give her any kefir grains. Irina departed from the Prince, but tribesmen were sent to capture her with the intention of forcing her to marry the Prince. The Blandov brothers mounted a rescue of Irina before the forced marriage could take place.

When Irina presented her grievance before the Czar, Prince Barcharov was ordered to make retribution to Irina. Although she was offered gold and jewels, Irina refused. She could only be compensated for what she had endured in one way: with kefir grains. The Czar ordered Prince Barcharov to give Irina 10 pounds of kefir grains!

Kefir as Medicine

Once the Blandov brothers had the milk kefir grains, they began making kefir for the All Russian Physicians’ Society. Kefir was used in Russian hospitals to treat a wide variety of conditions including digestive disorders, cancer, artherosclerosis, and tuberculosis [5]. Even now, kefir is routinely used for hospital patients, infants, and infirm people in Eastern Europe [7].

By the 1930’s, kefir was being produced on a large scale to meet widespread public demand in Russia. It took several decades for the commercial process of making kefir on a large scale to be perfected. Milk kefir was introduced to the western world by the 1960’s. Recently, milk kefir has become a much sought-after food with a rapidly growing global market.

Currently, many health-conscious consumers use kefir grains to easily produce their own milk kefir at home. Unlike the commercial kefir that was developed in Russia, most of the commercially-prepared kefir on the market today is made with direct-set powdered kefir cultures. These powdered cultures contain considerably fewer probiotic strains than kefir grains, but they produce a more consistent commercial product. From its ancient origins to today, milk kefir is a superfood that has enriched the health of humanity. 

References

[1] Zeynep B. Guzel-Seydim, Tugba Kok-Tas, Annel K. Greene & Atif C. Seydim. "Review: Functional Properties of Kefir." Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 51:3, 261-268, 2011. doi: 10.1080/10408390903579029

[2] Bourrie, Benjamin C T et al. “The Microbiota and Health Promoting Characteristics of the Fermented Beverage Kefir.” Frontiers in microbiology vol. 7 647, 2016. doi:10.3389/fmicb.2016.00647

[3] de Oliveira Leite, Analy Machado et al. “Microbiological, technological and therapeutic properties of kefir: a natural probiotic beverage.” Brazilian journal of microbiology : [publication of the Brazilian Society for Microbiology] vol. 44,2 341-9, 2013. doi:10.1590/S1517-83822013000200001

[4] “Fermented milk products”, Wikipedia, Wikimedia Foundation, August 11 2020. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fermented_milk_products

[5] Shavit, E. “Renewed Interest in Kefir, the Ancient Elixir of Longevity.” Fungi, vol. 1-2, 2008. http://www.medicinabiomolecular.com.br/biblioteca/pdfs/Doencas/do-1175.pdf

[6] Seifi, P. “Magical Kefir.” Russian Life website, 2016. https://russianlife.com/stories/online/magical-kefir/

[7] Nielsen B, Gürakan GC, Unlü G. “Kefir: a multifaceted fermented dairy product.” Probiotics Antimicrob Proteins 6:123–135, 2014. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25261107/